Field Notes by Rene

Back in April, I signed up for a ‘Socially Aware Walk’ (SAW) where we strolled through Chow Kit, Kuala Lumpur. As the name suggests, it’s a walk designed to promote awareness of the cultural background and social issues of the marginalised community in Chow Kit.

I’ve been to Chow Kit a couple of times before. The most memorable visit prior to this walk, was last year when my friend Joyce came down from Singapore, and we stayed at The Chow Kit, which was a pretty hip and swanky boutique hotel.

During her stay, we dined at Yut Kee, the OG among kopitiams, which has been serving Hainanese food since 1928. We also visited a traditional Chinese confectionery shop a short walk away from the hotel that has been around for 80 years. The area has plenty of hip restaurants and bars, so my impression of Chow Kit was a mix of the old, the new, and a dash of shadiness after the sun sets.

And this walk… Let’s just say it really put things into perspective.

Can you imagine living in constant fear of getting caught for not having an identity card? Or, even worse, spending your entire life in Malaysia, getting caught one day, and then being deported back to your ‘country of origin’ where you don’t even speak the language, or being forced to separate from your family because you got caught and deported while your family stays behind?

Sex workers as young as eight to as senior as sixty years old, helpless victims of violence and pedophiles who had no choice but to stay with their abusers because everyone lived together in the same lot, stateless children who gave up because they felt like there was no hope.

Shit…

Are we… in the same world?

The topic may seem a bit heavy, but our guide Luqman was able to keep it light-hearted and engaging. He showed us some colorful sides of Chow Kit: Pasar Chow Kit, which is the largest wet market in Malaysia, a mural of the iconic Sudirman, the very first Mr. DIY hardware store, and the Sultan Suleiman Club.

Luqman also brought us right to the heart of the Acehnese community based in the area. The hardworking ladies were super friendly, approachable, and knew a thing or two about making damn good kuih-muih (bite-sized snacks or desserts).

And the best part of all, I love it when little children greet Luqman (their teacher) on their way to school. They’re so polite and friendly despite their tough circumstances.

As Luqman stresses, education is crucial for these kids. We cannot guarantee if they will make it big, but being able to read and write is definitely very empowering and is key to beating the system.

Overall, it was a pleasant experience, and I would recommend it to others. I opted for the AM session because I am at the age where waking up early is easier than staying up late, but my friend went for the night walk, and what she witnessed was very different from what I saw.

The morning walk focused on the hustle and bustle of Chow Kit, while a different side of Chow Kit comes alive in the PM session. Check out @sawkualalumpur on Instagram if you’d like to join a walk too!