Field Notes by Rene

Have you ever encountered a restaurant that didn’t quite meet your expectations, yet you found yourself rooting for it because they have so much potential for growth?

That’s how I felt about PARI-, a hip, up-and-rising restaurant in Chiang Mai that champions local produce with hints of Japanese influence.

During our visit, we ordered eight dishes – a trio of grilled dishes (squid, mushroom, cabbage), four types of appetisers (Yuchan Tomato with Nan salt, Beef Tataki, Yunnan Ham Melon, and Mentaiko Tamagoyaki), and a main course of Spaghetti Mentaiko.

While PARI- also offers ceviche, we decided to skip it due to our upcoming mountain excursion and not take any risks with anything too funky.

Overall, our dining experience left us feeling a bit perplexed. Despite the restaurant’s edgy, modern ambiance, the menu lacked the same level of creativity and innovation.

Instead, it featured simple, somewhat comforting fare that, in my opinion, missed the mark on delivering a truly heartwarming experience.

If you’re going to serve comfort food, it should be food that feels like a big warm hug after a long day. What we had that day… it didn’t quite hit the spot.

To put it plainly, we could taste their lack of life experience and depth through their dishes.

With top-quality produce and straightforward dishes, there’s no room to hide technique or flavour flaws. The grilled mushrooms could use a bit more browning, the cabbage had an interesting hint of bacon-like taste but was slightly too salty, and some pieces of beef tataki were a bit too well done.

While I’m not expecting a jaded underpaid cook with face tattoos, substance dependencies, or a troubled past, I do believe the restaurant could benefit from a clearer culinary vision. Are they aiming for edgy modern cuisine or comforting classics?

However, amidst the mixed experience, there were some notable highlights. Surprisingly, the standout dish of the evening was the Yuchan tomato with Nan salt.

Despite not being a fan of raw tomatoes, I was blown away by the sweetness of the Yuchan variety, grown locally in Chiang Mai. The addition of Nan salt from northern Thailand only served to enhance its natural sweetness.

Although seemingly simple, this dish showcased the restaurant’s confidence in Chiang Mai’s local produce and their prowess in flavour pairings. It was a bold addition to the menu that paid off.

The Spaghetti Mentaiko was another winner – perfectly cooked pasta with a luscious coating of silky mentaiko, offering a delightful combination of flavours and textures.

And the best part of the night? Sitting at the counter, where we had a front-row seat to watch the cooks work their magic. It was a joy to watch young cooks doing their thing, pursuing their culinary dreams, and feel the wok hay as we eat.

Will I return to PARI-? Absolutely!

There’s undeniable potential in this restaurant, and I look forward to revisiting in the future to (feel their pain) see how they’ve grown. Till then, I hope they get to experience the bittersweetness of life and use it to make heartwarming dishes.